🔗 Share this article

Whenever assembling a list of London’s finest eateries, one might foresee well-known high-end venues. However, nestled near the top among these gastronomic giants is a unpretentious salonu found in a outlying corner of northern London.

A Surprise Honour

This small Turkish restaurant, concentrating in the specialties of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s south coast, has been named the fourth top restaurant in the metropolis by a influential food magazine. The recognition has made the proprietors utterly astonished.

“I am completely surprised,” remarks a owner’s son, pointing to his parents’ relentless work that led to their humble place achieving such a high spot on a prestigious 99-strong list.

A Character of Simplicity

This small shop, which was a simple cafe before its transformation into a sought-after destination, has kept much of its former charm. It seats just over 20 people and, beyond the vibrant live cooking performance, the interior remains largely unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy space,” notes the owner.

The Signature Offering: Tantuni

However, it is all down to the food, and this restaurant more than excels. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a straightforward delight. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is steamed to maintain a moist, juicy consistency.

The meat is then thrown into a large pan with flavours and oil, which are mixed in slowly. As the flavourful mixture heats through, freshly made lavaş—a pliable bread—is laid on top to absorb all the flavours. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are added before the flavourful meat is folded securely inside.

It is often eaten with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a powerful burst of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, bold onions and rich, paprika-red oil bringing it all in harmony.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A respected food critic labelled this dish “a part of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe is a treat. It is coated in less syrup than is typical, resulting in it a richer, toastier and more balanced flavour.

Rising Above the Titans

Notably, this modest spot has ranked above several celebrated three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself close to the top of the list, following other high-profile dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave the restaurant stuffed for under £25, similar experiences at high-end establishments can start at significantly more than that amount.

A Ethos of Heart

The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants listed and is situated well outside the city’s central zones. “It is not focused on luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and top food but I do not subscribe to that,” says the owner.

“I feel what is most important is friendliness, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

The philosophy is shared by the list’s compiler, who remarked that if he was in a role of authority, he would “require to make every chef in London visit this spot as a finishing school, to teach them the pitfalls of excess, and to demonstrate what is possible if you do just one – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Path of Perseverance

In contrast to most chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food didn’t train at Michelin-starred establishments. “I am really happy of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.

A lot of restaurants take years to establish themselves, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its acclaim is owing to tireless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“My mum was extremely tired. She would go shopping in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Each item is handmade; she would manage all of this. She is a solo parent and she had a personal life but her friends would support her to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. Each of these responsibilities forged her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he shares.

An Recognition for the People

The restaurant’s recognition is set to have meaning outside its own walls. “I believe numerous people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” notes the owner, emphasising the broader importance of this gastronomic achievement.